Surviving the Coronavirus (# 15) - Virtual Travel to Nepal

Holiday in the Annapurna Region

Up to this point on our stroll in Nepal the weather had been good and, since we were all good walkers, we were ahead of schedule. Thus, we were able to enjoy a holiday. 

Our camp was in a gorgeous location with a truly spectacular view of Annapurna II just an easy quarter mile from our camp. We enjoyed a sunny day encamped just above 8,000 ft. We did laundry, rested, and read.

Sikles 

The next day, we descended slowly through thick forest towards Sikles, the largest Gurung village in the Annapurna region (just over 6,500 ft.). The men of Sikles have had a long tradition of supplying some of the finest soldiers to the Gurkha regiments of both the British and Indian armies. 

The huge ‘whaleback’ peak of Lamjung Himal (22,920 ft.) dominates the skyline above Sikles, a mere 6 ¼ miles distant. Our campsite above the village provideed stunning views, particularly at sunset and sunrise.

The following day, our descent from Sikles was a long steady drop of about 1,600 feet to the Mardi Khola (Mardi River). 

In the valley we continued to follow the river downstream. Heading south we passed through small villages and cultivated fields, stopping for lunch at Tabrang Pheding.  

Our afternoon hike is short and we camp by the river in the small Chhettri, Brahmin settlement of Laamokhet (about 3,000 ft.). This area along the Mardi river is sub-tropical, with a spectacular backdrop of snow-capped Himalayan peaks.

Continuing downstream the next day, we cross the Mardi Khola to the east bank, trekking an easy trail to our lunch spot at Bhainse. After lunch, we climb steadily through terraced landscapes to Kalikasthan. 

Our final campsite is only a short distance further on, the site of an old palace from the Gorkha dynasty. Here there is an unrivalled panorama of the high snow peaks from Dhaulagiri (26,794 ft.) in the west to the Annapurnas, Manaslu (26,758 ft.), Peak 29 (24,740 ft.), and Himalchuli (25,718 ft) in the east.

On our final morning, we were up with the sunrise (and it was worth it).

But wait, there's more . . . 

Surviving Social Distancing (# 12)

Nepal

At this time Nepal has just 9 confirmed cases of the coronavirus, and no deaths. That's the good news. The bad news is that we all live in a global economy and the tourists who flock to Nepal for trekking and climbing are not there.

"Nepal May Escape the Coronavirus but Not the Crash"
by Arun Budhathoki, Foreign Policy, March 31, 2020

Nepal is a poor country, dependent on tourism. There is a shortage of doctors and hospitals have very little personal protective equipment (PPE), ventilators, oxygen cylinders, and intensive care units.

Nepal has a national lockdown with the borders closed, and most tourists sent away. Seems like a good time to go back with our ability to virtually travel.

On to Pokhara

After an early departure from Kathmandu, it is a long bumpy drive to Pokhara where we stop at a Tibetan refugee camp for lunch. After lunch we have a tour of the community's carpet factory before heading out along the terraced banks of the Seti River. It is about a two hour hike to an area called Lampatha. Here we spend our first night in a tent. 

In the morning we wake up to a magnificent view of the Annapurna Himal. 

Departing our campsite at Lampatha, we follow the banks of the Seti River upstream. On reaching the small village of Mardiphul, it is time for the first tea stop with the local Chhettri and Brahmin villagers.  

Crossing the river, we head north through the villages of Lahachok and Ghachok. These straggling linear settlements. The valley has relatively fertile soils as can be seen from the intensive use of terraced hillsides. The day’s walk is easy, with a very gradual gain in altitude.

The wide river terraces of the Seti River narrow into a more pronounced V-shaped gorge where it flows from the snowfields of its origin on Machapuchare and Annapurna III and Annapurna IV. Our campsite is at the Gurung village of Dhiprung (just below 5,000 ft above sea level).

Continued . . .